Saturday, November 19, 2011

So This is Austria!

A country in love with its rules

It seemed like a good idea at the time. But if I had known beforehand what I was getting myself into, I never would have started.

As I may have mentioned earlier, the public transportation system here (which I just learned is referred to as die Öffentlichen Verkehrsmittel, or Öffis for short) is one of the best in the world, and I do not anticipate ever needing to own a car. Nevertheless, I thought that, in case I ever wanted to rent one and drive somewhere, or needed to share the driving with someone else, an Austrian driver’s license would come in handy. An Austrian Führershchein also serves as a national ID, and is easier to carry around than a passport. Sources told me that in order to do this easily, I’d have to start the process within six months of moving here, or else I’d have to take driving lessons, pass a test, etc.

And so begins my saga.  Get comfortable … this will take a while!

The list of requirements was long, but seemed to present no obvious hurdles:
1.    A completed application (der Führerscheinantrag)
2.    Birth certificate, original & one copy  (die Geburtsurkunde)
3.    Vienna residence registration, original & one copy (der Meldezettel)
4.    Official photo ID (e.g. passport) (der amtlicher Lichtbildausweis)
5.    Current (U.S.) driver’s license & two copies, front and back
6.    Two passport size photos (available to make at kiosks everywhere)
7.    Medical report from a doctor on the approved list
8.    Copy of eyeglass prescription (if applicable)

In May, with that six-month deadline looming ever closer, I prepared everything but #7, and proceeded to visit my doctor for the required report.

ROADBLOCK #1:  Austria requires the completion of a rather cursory medical exam (a bit more than just the vision test), and yes, my doctor was on the approved list, but she was not permitted to administer the exam to me—it had to be by someone who is not my regular doctor. (Huh?) No problem; she  referred me to her colleague, who was also on the list. Now normally, most doctors set aside certain ‘open’ office hours, when you’re allowed to just drop in, although you may have to wait. So I went to this doctor’s office, only to be told that for this ‘exam’ I needed an appointment. I made one. I returned, only without my passport, which I was never told to bring. I made another appointment. I waited two and half hours for an exam that took five minutes.

ROADBLOACK #2:  Sometimes honesty is not the best policy! Because of the heart medications I take, the doctor was not able to issue a ‘clear’ report, but instead had to submit the form to the Verkehrsamt (their motor vehicles bureau). She said I would be notified by them what to do next.

Doctor’s service fee                                                   KA-CHING   € 19.00

Within a week (it was now late June), I received a letter from die Bundespolizeidirektion Wien (scary, no?), with instructions to report to their doctor for their  medical exam to determine “whether you possess the health prerequisites for steering a motor vehicle.” Aside from the vision screening, however, this exam was nothing more than a showing of my medical records and an interview with their doctor (which, I’m proud to say, I managed with minimal difficulty in German). So, based on the medications and the reasons for them, I was obliged, he said, to get an official affidavit from my cardiologist, certifying that it was, in fact, safe for me to drive. This had to be done within six weeks.

Verkehrsamt doctor’s fee                                        KA-CHING   € 33.20

The Verkehrsamt building


Life suddenly got very busy, so it quickly turned to August before I got to see my cardiologist.

ROADBLOCK #3:  He explained that he saw no problem with my driving, but if he were to certify that, he was required to take out specific insurance in case I do ever end up causing an accident. Of course, this was not included in my regular medical insurance, so there would be an additional cost. And while we were at it, and to make my case even stronger, he recommended doing a 24-hour Holter test to prove that everything was ‘functioning properly.’

Test fee                                                                         KA-CHING   € 33.49

The test came back great, no problems. He issued the affidavit, and wished me luck!

Cardiologist’s affidavit insurance                         KA-CHING   €150

ROADBLOCK #4:  I returned to the Verkehrsamt (it was now September), affidavit and all documents in hand, satisfied that I had completed all the requirements for my new license. This visit involved stopping at a total of three separate stations within the agency, until my paperwork was approved (and, most importantly, stamped!) and I was finally directed to go to Window #7 for Ausländischen Führerscheines (foreign driver licenses). Ja, alles in Ordnung—but I don’t have the official translation into German of my U.S. driver’s license.  

What? Have you looked at your license lately? There’s nothing to translate—it’s all completely obvious: name, address,  date of birth, license number, height, weight, eye color, restrictions. But  no, I had to take it to the ÖAMTC (the Austrian equivalent of the AAA, where, by the way, I have several English students!). A separate trip to their downtown office, and after a relatively short wait, I was able to leave with an officially stamped and signed translation that provided … go on, take a guess: my name, address,  date of birth, license number, height, weight, eye color, restrictions (I wear glasses).

Translation fee                                                            KA-CHING    € 13.81

Life got even busier (I was teaching at Webster as well as several business classes), so it was October before I managed to return to the Verkehrsamt for what I assumed would be the absolute final step in the process of my license application.

ROADBLOCK #5:  I went straight to Window #7 where, for once, a young man spoke English. He pulled my file, which by now was several centimeters thick, and said, yes, everything looked OK. He gave me a slip of paper and told me to call the phone number on it at the end of the week to make sure everything was ready. Then I could return to pay the fee and hand in my U.S. license.

What!?!?!?!  Why did I have to give up my U.S. license? I’m a citizen of the U.S. and Austria. What happens if and when I go back and want to drive a car? (Well, I could use my Austrian license.) So, I left—again without an Austrian  license—reeling from the prospect of having to give up a part of my identity!

My mind raced, and I quickly contacted my brother and asked him to find out for me if it were possible to claim a lost Maine driver’s license and apply for a new one online. He e-mailed me the link, I filled out the application (after answering “no” to the question: Have you applied for a replacement license more than five times this year?), and printed out a confirmation of my order.

License replacement fee                                           KA-CHING   $ 5.00

Within two weeks, Peter confirmed that my new Maine license had safely arrived at my (his) home address. On October 24th, two days before he arrived with it on his visit to Vienna, I went back to the Verkehrsamt for the third (or was this the fourth?) time, confidently (or should I say, smugly) walked over to Window #7, paid the fee and handed in my soon-to-be-‘lost’ U.S. license. I received a temporary paper license, and was told that the real one would come in the mail … which it did, within the week.

Austrian license fee                                                   KA-CHING     € 60.50

Image blurred here for reasons of security and vanity!


ROADBLOCK #6:  Unlike U.S. driver’s licenses, which must be renewed every few years (depending on the state), in Austria your license doesn’t expire. Unless you’re me … in which case it will expire in 2016. But I can’t even think about that now.

So, have you done the math? I sure have! Aside from literally countless hours involved in the process, my lovely new license cost me a total of € 313.70, or $423.95 (at today’s fairly favorable rate of €1.00=$1.35).

Like I said, if I had known beforehand …

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Just call me Frau Professor


… and don’t forget to do your homework!

The funny thing is, I never thought of teaching as a career for myself. I suspected that I didn’t have the temperament or patience (picture a classroom full of pubescent pranksters!), and felt uncomfortable about the prospect of being asked a question to which I didn’t know the answer. After all, teachers are supposed to know, right?

Flash forward to my life as an ESL trainer—which is what we’re called here—and I find that teaching English is the ideal combination of personal, professional, and social satisfaction for me. But teaching business English to company executives and employees is one thing; teaching university students is something else entirely.

When I first met with the head of the English department at Webster University (an American university based in St. Louis with campuses all around the world), it was an informational interview, with no specific discussion about a teaching position. However, as my continuing good fortune would have it, the new academic director had just begun an initiative to ramp up their ESL program and so they needed new teachers. After conducting a demo lesson, (a ‘screen test’ if you will,) I was hired as an adjunct professor for the first Fall semester, which began on August 22nd.

As is apparently the case all over, but which I did not know, adjuncts are hired on the basis of their credentials and experience, and expected to develop their own syllabi. Never having done this before, I had to dive in, research, create, modify, and finally submit and post my syllabus for the course in Intermediate Reading and Writing Skills. My obsession for detail and structure also drove me to develop creative lessons and exercises and to prepare extensively for my classes, which were held three times a week. Of course I also had to write and grade midterm and final exams, as well as many homework assignments.

Hard work and long hours, yes. But you know, I loved it. I had a total of 24 students, divided into two sessions (the school’s class size limit is 15), and it was both fascinating and rewarding getting to know them. They ranged in age from 17 to 21, and came from Serbia, Croatia, Albania, Ukraine, Azerbaijan, Iran, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, Slovakia, Bulgaria, Georgia and Russia. In one sense, many of them had already experienced a lot in their lives, including wars, earthquakes and floods—even if they were still young children at the time.



On the other hand, they were in general extremely conservative socio-politically, and  still quite naïve academically. Despite many years of studying English in their home countries, most were really not ready for university-level courses in English, which is why and how they ended up in my class!

The semester ended a couple of weeks ago, and I’m on a bit of a break right now, although I’m still teaching my business English students. The good news is, I received positive course evaluations and have already been contracted to teach a full year of  courses next year, starting in mid-January. This means that a ‘cornerstone’ of my income is assured, which I hope to supplement extensively with business English lessons through the language schools and privately.

I can hardly believe that it's already 10 months since I moved. The U.S. seems both like yesterday and so long ago. I’ve felt at home here since the very beginning, but in addition to teaching, there’s been a lot to do just to set up my new life, and so I haven’t availed myself of too many cultural—or even tourist—activities.

But as Vienna heads into the November/December holiday season, tons of concerts, exhibits, special markets and all manner of festive activities are scheduled throughout the city, and I aim to do my best to partake of as many as I can. Care to join me?