Thanks for visiting my Blog!

And, btw, who ARE you?

I honestly never anticipated how much I would enjoy writing this blog. I think it actually makes me more aware of my daily life and surroundings because I often see and react to things in terms of how I’d like to share them with my readers. It’s also a really satisfying way of keeping connected with the family and friends I love.

The platform I use, Blogspot, is quite easy to use and, as a side benefit, it provides a statistical dashboard that tracks and measures information about my readers.  For example, since the first post, my blog has been viewed 1,604 times. Most visitors – 39% – use Internet Explorer as their browser, 24% use Firefox and another 24% use Safari. (Never even heard of the other browser names!)

A whopping 64% are using Windows as their operating system, followed by 28% who use an Apple OS. A smattering of you visit me on your iPhones, Blackberries, Androids, Samsungs or iPads.

But what really fascinates me is the fact that I have, to date, readers from 23 countries! Are you ready?  Some of them are obvious, but as of last count, there are people reading my blog in:

United States

Austria

Israel

Germany

Great Britain

Argentina

Australia

South Korea

India

Russia

Canada

Spain

Poland

Kyrgyzstan

Denmark

Afghanistan

Egypt

Finland

France

Iran

Serbia

Singapore

Moldova

So my question is:  Since I don’t anyone in most of these countries, Who are you? How did you find me?  And if you’re reading this now, why not jot a comment down below and tell me something about yourself (as little or as much as you’d like)? 

I’m so curious – aren’t you?

Working Girl

Going to and from 'the office'

There is no question that when I had my own business and worked from the house, I had the best commute possible. A single flight of stairs separated my personal life from my office in the basement. This had its drawbacks, of course, as I could never really be completely in one place without feeling the very nearby pull of the other. But it was a small price, well worth paying, to not have to deal with NYC subways!

Here in Vienna, however, where I have to travel to each class I teach, often several times a day, commuting is a downright pleasure. First, as I’ve written earlier, with my annual pass I can make as many trips as I want without paying a fare each time. This in itself is a bonus. 

Second, since Vienna is not all that huge, getting anywhere within the city usually takes no more than half an hour. And the going is easy, comfortable, quick, and reliable.

Before working here, creature of habit that I am, I would have thought that I’d prefer the predictability of commuting to the same office every day, not having to think about which connections to make (i.e. getting lost!), or calculating different travel times. But I’ve found that one of the advantages of the language schools sending me out to different company offices for each class is that it’s been the best way to get to know the city. I’ve gone to districts and areas and business environments I would have never otherwise seen. And sometimes the getting there is also just as interesting.

So here are a few snapshots of my various commutes so far.

One group I teach is at a company in the Millenium Tower in the 20th district. It is the tallest office building in the city, and offers this spectacular view, looking south, from the conference room where I teach. The Danube is off to the left.

I get to ride this classy-looking elevator every time I teach at the office of one of the language schools, which is located in the very heart of the first district, just off the Graben and steps away from Stephansdom.

And here is what Stephansdom looked like at sunset the other evening as I left the office - a balmy evening, and the cafes and the pedestrian plaza were full. Perfect time to reward myself with a gelato combo - hazelnut and chocolate!

I've been teaching several classes at the Austrian motor club (their AAA), which is about 15 minutes north of the city limits in a town called Klosterneuberg, famous for its ancient monastery. Even before spring, the scenery was picturesque, so I enjoy going there even though it's a 45-minute commute each way and a 10-minute hike from the bus stop, up a fairly steep road.

I've just started some new classes at one of the country's major banks in the third district, and I pass the Wiener Konzert Haus every time I go there. The concert season is really kicking into high gear now, so I hope to treat myself soon, because, after all, they get the top orchestras and soloists. But I think I need to save a few more Euros before I do!

Have I mentioned lately how much the Viennese like to eat? This modest array is one of several in a series of shops in the shopping mall/lobby of one company where I teach. It greets (and tempts) me every time, even early in the morning.

This is a (surreptitiously taken) photo of the reception desk/counter at a huge client company, located in a corporate park in the 12th district. Employees scoop up the free fruit by the handful on their way to work. Smart company!

I wonder where my next assignment will take me ... 

Best Birthday Ever

Who knew my kids could lie so well?

With the stealth-of-mission worthy of a Mossad sting operation, it turns out that my children – long before I even left for Vienna – had been plotting, scheming, and exercising the most extreme secrecy in order to stage a birthday surprise that would top all birthday surprises. And if there is such a thing as happy PTSD, then I have it, because I am still reliving that moment of surprise over and over in my mind. And it sends my heart racing every time.

The last time I had seen Ben was at the end of September 2010, when he left for London to study at the Royal College of Art. I’d said my tearful goodbyes to Michelle after Thanksgiving, and then again on New Year’s Eve, when I’d had to return briefly to NJ.

Since then, thanks to e-mail, Facebook and, above all, Skype, I’ve been able to stay in touch, but of course it’s not the same as being together. A few weeks ago, Ben suggested that he might like to come for a visit around the time of my birthday. Of course I was ecstatic, and immediately began thinking of all the places we could go and things we could do for the week (Monday to Friday) that he said he’d be here.

So after teaching my morning class on Monday, the 2^nd, I hopped on the CAT train to the airport, and with great joy and jubilation, hugged my beamish boy on his arrival. We stopped for a jause (afternoon snack) in the outdoor garden of my neighborhood café before going to my apartment, and Ben’s reunion with Scout. Let me tell you - that was one happy dog! (Ben was pretty happy too.)

On Tuesday, my birthday, we walked and walked all around my district, stopping for lunch at one of the university campus bistros. A quick return to the apartment to feed and walk Scout, then out again to stroll and shop through the streets of the 7^th and 6^th districts. When the shops started closing and my feet started giving out, we headed back to my place.

As we walked down the street towards my apartment, Ben asked me what I wanted for Mother’s Day. I was clueless, and even surprised by the question. I think I said something like, “Nothing special.” Ben just grinned and said, “I think we can do better than that.” I shrugged and said, “OK, whatever you’d like to do is fine with me.” I looked up, and there in front of me stood Michelle and Arnon. I was speechless, flabbergasted, and overjoyed.

Oh, so happy me, out for my birthday dinner with my kids at Selbstverständlich (Obviously), my favorite local restaurant.

Ben made an omelet breakfast for us all
before our day's excursion.

It was the last thing in the world I was expecting, but the best thing in the world I could have ever dreamed of. Mish had told me that they were leaving on Thursday for Israel to see family. But, papushdeenisneakies that they are, they left on Monday instead and had arranged their itinerary to include a stop in Vienna. The down side was that, in reality, Ben could not take the time to stay the whole week. Of course, he’d known that all along, but told me he was going to stay through Friday just to ensure that I didn’t make any other plans. They had to be sure I’d be here – and not busy – for Michelle’s visit. Their master plan unfolded brilliantly.

A Ferris Bueller moment in front of
a Schiele landscape

Soooooooo, the next day, Ben, Michelle, Arnon and I went together to the Leopold Museum (great exhibit of Jugendstil/Art Nouveau jewelry and some amazing Schiele), and had fantastic Austrian cuisine for lunch. 

Aw ...

And aw ...

On the train to the plane

Coffee and strudel at the classic
Grienstedl Cafe  

Ben gets his Wienerschnitzel

Then we accompanied Ben to the CAT for his return flight to London. Michelle, Arnon and I ambled in and around the 1^st district. Of course this included a  stop for coffee and apfelstrudel, then it was back to my place for a rest and a home-cooked meal. 

A quick stop to see one of the offices where I teach.

Thursday was Arnon’s turn to leave, as he was eager to see his family and home, where he hadn’t been in a year and a half. Mish and I had a glorious day together, strolling and eating at the Naschmarkt, window-shopping on Mariahilferstrasse (and, yes, a coffee at the old coffee house there). Dinner was a quiet meal of Austrian fare at the café around the corner. 

Yes, it's edible wurst, but it's marzipan!

Our parting the next morning was, of course, quite sad, but the utter joy and love I felt over the previous few days was enough to get me through the moment of separation. And I will be living off that for a lifetime.  Thank you, my dearest, most wonderful children, from the very bottom of my heart. You are the best, and you made this absolutely the best birthday ever.

Pete's Visit

Some photo highlights

Isn’t it always that way … you live in a great city but never tour the sites until company comes? Only this time, when my brother, Peter, came to visit, we decided to go and see a little bit of the countryside beyond Vienna. And the beautiful thing is, you don’t have to go far – barely an hour’s drive outside the city limits – to see some of the most spectacular scenery and bits of history. So here, with just a little caption narration, is a brief look at some highlights of our wonderful week.

We actually began in the city itself by going back to our roots.
Peter is standing in front of the building where our father grew up,
and I am standing in front of the doorway to our mother's childhood home.

On Saturday, we took a train to the village of Melk, site of an 11th century Benedictine abbey, which sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube in Lower Austria, adjoining the Wachau valley. The church was breathtaking! 

The view of the village, next to the river, was enchanting.

Then we took a boat ride up river on the Danube, enjoying lunch, as well as the view, with friends. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

We disembarked at Krems, a town that is over 1,000 years old and is in the center of a major grape-growing region.

We enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the old city. I particularly fancied the statue in the middle which, legend has it, was erected by and dedicated to the association of hen-pecked husbands!

On Sunday, we picked up a rental car, packed Scout in it, and headed south to the village of Puchberg am Schneeberg, where my parents vacationed on their trips back to Austria in their later years. Again, I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

After Scout spooked the cows, they all got up and headed towards us with great purpose. This in turn spooked Scout, who growled threateningly, which provoked the cows even further and caused them to approach with even greater purpose! We decided to high-tail it out of there, and retreated in haste to this lovely cafe for some coffee, quiet, sunshine and strudel.

Monday was a day in town, shopping at the local market, browsing the Ostermarkt (you've never seen so many beautiful eggs!) and getting ready for the Pesach seder.

On Tuesday, the Danube called us back, and we drove to Durnstein.

A magical evening along the river: warm air, trees in bloom, birds in song, and Austrian soul food for dinner.

Pete had the salmon (Lachs) and prawns, I had the goulash with quail's egg and spaetzle.

And then the sun set, casting a glow on the castle ruins above the town, where King Richard I Lionheart of England was held captive during the third Crusade.

Best Strudel
We have sampled apfelstrudel in many places throughout and outside the city, and so far, this one, served at the Gasthaus Wild on Radetskyplatz  in Vienna's third district, is the winner. But of course, the search must go on!

In Transit

Getting Around in Vienna    

I’m sure it’s quite possible that there are better public transit systems in the world, but the ease of getting around Vienna without a car is a big part of what makes this truly one of the most livable cities.

 

Of course, size does matter. Vienna is only 160 square miles – half the land mass of New York. And the Ubahn is newer than the subway. Nevertheless, I am convinced that the Austrian system is far superior, and would never work back in the good ol’ U.S. of A.

For one thing, it works on the honor system. What’s that, you say? They actually trust their citizens to pay? Well, actually, yes. That isn’t to say that some don’t try to cheat it. But here’s how it works. You can ride any Ubahn, city tram or bus just by getting on. You don’t have to swipe a card or pay a cashier. Really, you just walk on. Of course, you’re supposed to pay – by the ride, day, week, month or year – and if one of the undercover ticket agents shakes you down and you don’t have a ticket, you pay a steep fine:  €75 (about $100). So far I’ve seen it happen only once, and the agent  took pity on the tearful young student and let her pay the fare instead of issuing a summons for the fine.

So I decided to buy a year pass (Jahreskarte), which comes with a significant discount, and now I never have to think about it. I can ride as many trains, trams or buses as I like without having to pay for each trip. And, here’s a bonus for Austrian seniors:  you qualify at 60 for steeply reduced rates, so it costs next to nothing to use public transit! Just a little over a year for me to go – wohoo!

Another benefit, and it’s probably no surprise – Vienna transit runs on schedule, and on time!  Every Ubahn station and tram or bus stop has a printed daily schedule you can check, and most have a digital readout that updates every minute to tell you exactly when the next one is coming – and the one after that too, which is typically only a couple of minutes. Miss a train? No problem! Next one should be along any minute. Running to catch a train was never my idea of good exercise anyway; now I don’t have to.

Dang! Just missed a train.
No problem, another one will be here in
a couple of minutes.

Here it comes now!

    

But if you really can't bear to stand idle for two minutes, or are anxious about getting where you're going, Vienna will even entertain you while you wait! Several Ubahn stations have plasma screens along the tunnel walls, which display videos of news, cultural listings, ads, and even cartoons. And, with safety in mind, when the train is about to enter the station, the screen shifts to a warning to step back, then goes blank. Take a look!

And you know those garbled PA announcements on the NYC subways? Vienna’s got them beat there too. Not only are the announcements clear (even I can understand the German), it’s the same recorded voice throughout the system, and he tells you not just the next stop, but all the other Ubahn, tram and subway lines you can connect with there. Oh, and in case you want to prepare, he also tells you which side of the car the doors will open.

I also think that the Vienna transit system – WienerLinien – hires graphic designers with a fetish for maps and signs. Clear as a bell, colorful and easy to interpret. 

Here's where you are, where you're going, and when you'll get there.

And that’s not all. Don’t know the best way to go from point A to Point B? Just go online. Provide your address or nearest stop, your destination, the date and time of your trip, and voilà – within seconds several possible routes appear, with multiple combinations of Ubahn, tram and bus rides, and it tells you exactly how long each one takes. Click on the PDF symbol, and you’ll even get a map showing the path to walk from the station to the particular location. The date and time is very important because their computer knows the precise schedule for every day and hour, so if you plug in, for example, the time you have to be somewhere, you’ll know exactly when you have to leave. And barring some natural disaster, you can reliably predict that you will be on time. Neat, huh?

Don’t get me wrong – Vienna has plenty of cars and trucks on the road. But I get the feeling they really want to encourage using public transit because they make it so accessible. You can ride with your baby stroller, shopping cart, bicycle – no problem. Not only does every Ubahn station (I think) have an elevator, but there are special parts of each car reserved for these people, and in my experience, riders always make way for them. Trams and buses have flat, wide entrance platforms in addition to the usual steps.

Got the munchies? The question is:
What don't I want?

And never fear, you simply cannot go hungry in Vienna, no matter how long your commute. In or near every Ubahn, tram or bus station is an assortment of bakeries, sandwich shops or pizza/sausage/kebab stands. And they are well patronized!

Last, for now, and certainly not least, dogs are permitted! They are required to be muzzled, but I have to say that this regulation is not always observed. Nonetheless, and probably because the Viennese are so besotted with their canine companions, I think I’ve seen every breed and size of pooch riding the rails. I have yet to introduce Scout to this novelty, but I suspect that before too long I will – it’s simply a necessary part of her Viennese education and assimilation process. (Check out this clip and you'll see.)

There is one similarity with the NY subway, though – you hear an unending variety of languages spoken. Vienna has always been a crossroads city, and many immigrants, or visitors, live and travel here. And while I may have an ear for languages, I think I’ve heard many more that I don’t recognize than ones that I do. It’s a mysterious and delightful cacophony!

All kids love to push buttons. So smart Viennese moms
let theirs push the ones on the Ubahn doors,
which you need to do if you want to exit.

Vacation's Over!

It’s back to work for me!

It isn’t exactly as though I’ve been sitting on my hands lately. In fact, I’d say that even though I haven’t worked at a traditional office for some time, with preparing to leave the U.S. and getting settled here (not to mention the teaching I did last year), I've been working pretty hard!

But a major part of the plan in moving to Vienna was to be able to find employment so I could support myself in my new life. And I am happy to report that this has proven to be not only possible, but abundantly so.

I had anticipated that not having a longer track record in teaching would be a hindrance, but — as Karma would have it — my business and entrepreneurial background seems to more than compensate. Choosing to go for the CELTA certification, as opposed to quicker, less expensive and less reputable ones, was also a good decision, as the Cambridge University imprimatur does carry weight here.

I’ve hooked up with what I consider two of the best language schools that cater to an Austrian and international business clientele. My first class was for a pair of lawyers who work in the area of telecommunications and regulation. I’m also teaching employees in the accounting and HR departments of the Austrian branch of an Italian company, some association marketing execs and a business consultant — for a total so far of six classes a week.  Their levels range from elementary to intermediate, and they’re lots of fun to teach. I also actually enjoy commuting to the various work sites, as it tangibly enhances the feeling of being more than just a tourist or visitor, but rather being someone who actually lives here. That’s always been my goal.

Now this is not going to cover all my expenses, but basically it does take care of my rent, and that’s a good start. I’m also meeting with administration officials at schools and American-based universities with campuses here that teach in English, to investigate the potential for not only teaching positions but freelance communications work as well. So far people seem receptive. Still on my agenda is the U.S. embassy and their American Chamber of Commerce (the ‘amcham’), although perhaps a little later.

In the middle of all this I’ve been going to various meetings and seminars — on issues such as Austrian income tax liability, social (i.e. health, pension, etc.) insurance and other relocation matters — offered by various agencies and organizations here. I’ve gotten involved (on a volunteer basis) with the AWA’s imminent rebranding campaign, and continue to study German, meet with friends and go about other daily affairs. In the process, I’m discovering new ways to get around the city and (finally!) getting a sense of the geography.

Vienna continues to nourish me aesthetically, and that’s even before the grass greens and the trees and flowers burst forth. But that is coming soon, as I can actually feel the days getting longer. Certain people — and you know who you are! — are already making plans to visit, and that is something else I look forward to.

I do have to continually monitor Scout’s virally-transmitted intestinal problem, which, I’m sorry to say, has become an ongoing and unexpected corollary to living in a city with so many dogs and their less-than-conscientious owners. She’s a hardy little beast, though, and seems completely unfazed by it all, so it’s just a task and an expense that I must deal with.

And finally, you may be wondering, what’s with all these window photos? Well, there wasn’t really much to illustrate in this post, so I decided to share something that I have found so enjoyable here: the beauty of the architectural detail that goes into even  the most prosaic of structures, apartment buildings. These are all from within a two-block radius of my own apartment. Other neighborhoods are even more spectacular. Hope you like ‘em!

Getting Settled

One month down, a lifetime to go

My things are unpacked, my financial affairs are finally in order, I’ve got my Jahreskarte (annual pass) for the transit system, an ever-widening circle of friends, and NO SNOW. So life is good!

Where has the time gone? I know I haven’t written in a while, but honestly, it’s because life is so normal for me here that it’s hard to single out events or impressions to talk about.

The Albertina - formerly the largest residential 

Habsburg palace, now one of Vienna's signature 

art museums, named for Duke Albert of Saxe-

Teschen, son-in-law of Empress Maria Theresa.

My days are spent very much like they were, or would be, in the U.S.: making my to-do lists and checking things off, running errands, making phone calls, writing e-mails, looking for work (more on that soon), grocery shopping, doing laundry (can’t get away from it!) as well as business and social networking. Only here, when I step out my front door, or look out the Ubahn (subway, metro, T …) or tram window as I travel around town, my eyes are treated to architectural wonders and many hundreds of years of imperial splendor. Yes, I know it wasn’t splendid for many who lived in centuries past, but how can one not marvel at the beauty and grandeur? (Check out my ride and the Opera House.)

A balmy Sunday afternoon at the
Belvedere to see the exhibit
"Rodin and Vienna"

A fair amount of my time is actually spent studying maps and Web sites to get to know the city better. With a somewhat dysfunctional innate GPS, it sometimes takes me a while to get my bearings and figure out where I should be headed – especially in the winding streets of the old city. But it is gradually sinking in, and since the tram and much of the Ubahn are above ground, I pay particular attention as I go along. This way I also get to make mental notes of shops, cafés, restaurants and places of interest that I want to make a point of going back to. And, yes, I have been to a few so far! 

I’ve been doing some German studying on my own, but have also just signed up for a course at one of the (many!) language schools here. I’m not a complete beginner, but without any formal instruction or solid background, I’m not yet an advanced beginner, but somewhere in between. So I’ve been doing a little bit of crash studying this week in order to be able to join an “in between” class that is already in progress. I’m also lucky to be able to attend a weekly conversation class for slightly-more-than-beginners at the downtown office of the AWA (American Women’s Association), where grammar, story-telling, conversation and quite a bit of fun are provided for an hour and a half every Tuesday morning. 

My German course workbook

There is, of course, television. I do try to watch, or just listen, to programs in German, although they are often from Germany, not Austria. I’ve mostly enjoyed their nature programs and documentaries, a growing portion of which I’m getting to understand. But when I need ‘relief’ I switch to English language broadcasts. Sadly, my only recourse is CNN and BBC, and they focus on just a handful of international stories … ad nauseum! Watch five to ten minutes at a time and you will have seen the entire day’s programming. There’s also EuroNews and – oddly enough – Russia Today which do broadcast in English, but they are similarly repetitive. (You think you’ve been hearing a lot about Egypt???) And while it seems that licensing laws  prevent most networks and broadcast sites (e.g. Hulu) from streaming outside the U.S., I can - for better or worse - get my fix of MSNBC’s Morning Joe, even if it is a day late! Strange thing is, when I’m on my computer, the Internet gods know I’m in Vienna, and tell Google and Facebook to run ads for local Viennese retailers and services, and in German. Spooky!

I am also steeping myself in European history thanks to those who gave me all sorts of books on Vienna  before I left. I particularly enjoyed Thunder at Twilight by Frederic Morton (thank you, Michael!), which beautifully, almost poetically, describes the cultural, social, political and psychological spirit of turn-of-the-century Vienna - the brilliant and prolific yet doomed epicenter of the Habsburg empire - and how the Austrian and German monarchs were essentially powerless to stop the locomotive and train of events that brought on World War I. Now I’m jumping ahead a bit to post WWII cold war Europe with Armageddon by Leon Uris, borrowed from the wall-length collection at the AWA office.

So not to worry … even though I’ve chosen not to bore you these last few weeks with the quotidian details of my life, I have been enjoying myself enormously and feeling so very much at home in this amazing city. I can’t believe that tomorrow it will already be five weeks!

I plan to do at least an entire blog post on this!