Just call me Frau Professor

… and don’t forget to do your homework!

The funny thing is, I never thought of teaching as a career for myself. I suspected that I didn’t have the temperament or patience (picture a classroom full of pubescent pranksters!), and felt uncomfortable about the prospect of being asked a question to which I didn’t know the answer. After all, teachers are supposed to know, right?

Flash forward to my life as an ESL trainer—which is what we’re called here—and I find that teaching English is the ideal combination of personal, professional, and social satisfaction for me. But teaching business English to company executives and employees is one thing; teaching university students is something else entirely.

When I first met with the head of the English department at Webster University (an American university based in St. Louis with campuses all around the world), it was an informational interview, with no specific discussion about a teaching position. However, as my continuing good fortune would have it, the new academic director had just begun an initiative to ramp up their ESL program and so they needed new teachers. After conducting a demo lesson, (a ‘screen test’ if you will,) I was hired as an adjunct professor for the first Fall semester, which began on August 22^nd.

As is apparently the case all over, but which I did not know, adjuncts are hired on the basis of their credentials and experience, and expected to develop their own syllabi. Never having done this before, I had to dive in, research, create, modify, and finally submit and post my syllabus for the course in Intermediate Reading and Writing Skills. My obsession for detail and structure also drove me to develop creative lessons and exercises and to prepare extensively for my classes, which were held three times a week. Of course I also had to write and grade midterm and final exams, as well as many homework assignments.

Hard work and long hours, yes. But you know, I loved it. I had a total of 24 students, divided into two sessions (the school’s class size limit is 15), and it was both fascinating and rewarding getting to know them. They ranged in age from 17 to 21, and came from Serbia, Croatia, Albania, Ukraine, Azerbaijan, Iran, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia, Slovakia, Bulgaria, Georgia and Russia. In one sense, many of them had already experienced a lot in their lives, including wars, earthquakes and floods—even if they were still young children at the time.

On the other hand, they were in general extremely conservative socio-politically, and  still quite naïve academically. Despite many years of studying English in their home countries, most were really not ready for university-level courses in English, which is why and how they ended up in my class!

The semester ended a couple of weeks ago, and I’m on a bit of a break right now, although I’m still teaching my business English students. The good news is, I received positive course evaluations and have already been contracted to teach a full year of  courses next year, starting in mid-January. This means that a ‘cornerstone’ of my income is assured, which I hope to supplement extensively with business English lessons through the language schools and privately.

I can hardly believe that it's already 10 months since I moved. The U.S. seems both like yesterday and so long ago. I’ve felt at home here since the very beginning, but in addition to teaching, there’s been a lot to do just to set up my new life, and so I haven’t availed myself of too many cultural—or even tourist—activities.

But as Vienna heads into the November/December holiday season, tons of concerts, exhibits, special markets and all manner of festive activities are scheduled throughout the city, and I aim to do my best to partake of as many as I can. Care to join me?

Social-ized Medicine

And other medical observations

As a fully documented Austrian citizen, and having now routinely partaken of various components of Austria’s medical system, I can happily pass along to you some of my keen observations about how things are done here. As you might expect – they’re very different!

The Apotheke: Something old, something new

Rule #1 – Be Sociable!

When you walk into the waiting room of a doctor’s office in Vienna, it is customary to greet all those assembled with a friendly Grüss Gott (the typical Austrian salutation) or Guten Tag.  Virtually everyone reciprocates. When you leave, signal your departure with a cheery Wiedersehen (Wieners often leave off the ‘auf’) and your fellow patients will again reply in kind. A mere formality, perhaps, but a rather agreeable way the Austrians have of ‘socializing’ their medicine.

Rule #2 – Have eCard, Will Treat

It is the law that all Austrian citizens must be insured. (Hear that, America?) With that, you get a plastic insurance identity card – the ‘eCard’ – which you simply present at each doctor and lab visit, and at the Apotheke when you get prescriptions filled (for only €5). No co-pay is required at these visits, and there is no haggling with an insurance company to prove that you needed medical service. The doctor sees you, orders tests or procedures, and the insurance pays. Fertig! (Done!) And premiums? If I were employed full-time, the company would pay all or most of that, but as an independent, self-employed contractor I have to pay my own – like in the U.S. But here, the cost of my insurance for an entire year is equivalent to what I would have to pay for just a few months in the U.S.

(Numbers removed for security)

Rule #3 – Signs are not WYSIWYG

Language learners are always cautioned about ‘false friends’ – words that look like ones in your own language but mean something different. In the wacky world of Austrian medicine, often What You See Is NOT What You Get, and this threw me at first. What do you think these words mean?

Kontrolle

Termin

Ordination

Ambulanz

Labor           

(Answers below, but don’t peak until you’ve tried to guess!)

Rule #4 – Learn Your Metric System

Forms frequently ask how tall I am and how much I weigh, but I was clueless when it came to centimeters and kilos. With a nifty iPhone conversion app, however, I am now able to answer quite accurately. (And no, I’m not publishing those statistics here!)

Rule #5 – Your Body – Your Files

In one sense, the process here operates like an HMO. You have a GP, from whom you must get a referral (Überweisung) the first time you see a specialist or whenever you go for tests. But in the U.S., usually that specialist or lab sends the report to your GP. Here, you either wait for the results or they get sent to you (post or e-mail), and then you need to bring them with you when you return to see your GP. Radiology films, blood test results, etc. – in Austria these are all your property and your responsibility as the patient. A bit cumbersome, yes, but hey – I’m not paying an arm and a leg either!

Rule #6 – Wear Good Walking Shoes

As far as I understand it, there is no mail-order pharmacy here. You get prescriptions, as well as refill prescriptions, in person from your doctor. No appointment is required – you just stop by their office, and there is very little waiting, Danke schön – but it does require a trip each time. And when your doctors are located in different parts of the city, you get to do a fair amount of commuting to take care of these things. Again, a bit cumbersome, but at these rates, it’s something you take (ahem) in stride.

Rule #7 – English is OK, but German is Better

So far I’ve managed to understand what’s been told to me auf Deutsch, and sometimes I can even get out a phrase or sentence in broken German. But most providers I’ve seen are reasonably proficient in English. Still, the reports are in German (duh!), and I need my dictionary for the technical stuff. Time, practice, and patience – that’s what I keep telling myself – and eventually I’ll get it.

On the whole, I’d rate the system a solid A. The equipment is clearly state-of-the-art, and the practitioners extremely thorough, knowledgeable, and kind. Naturally, I’m hoping I won’t have to use them all that much, but I feel like if I do, I’ll be in good hands.

-----------------

NOT WYSIWYG:

Kontrolle                  = check-up

Termin                       = appointment

Ordination                = open office  hours  (no appointment needed)

Ambulanz                  = clinic

Labor                          = laboratory

Thanks for visiting my Blog!

And, btw, who ARE you?

I honestly never anticipated how much I would enjoy writing this blog. I think it actually makes me more aware of my daily life and surroundings because I often see and react to things in terms of how I’d like to share them with my readers. It’s also a really satisfying way of keeping connected with the family and friends I love.

The platform I use, Blogspot, is quite easy to use and, as a side benefit, it provides a statistical dashboard that tracks and measures information about my readers.  For example, since the first post, my blog has been viewed 1,604 times. Most visitors – 39% – use Internet Explorer as their browser, 24% use Firefox and another 24% use Safari. (Never even heard of the other browser names!)

A whopping 64% are using Windows as their operating system, followed by 28% who use an Apple OS. A smattering of you visit me on your iPhones, Blackberries, Androids, Samsungs or iPads.

But what really fascinates me is the fact that I have, to date, readers from 23 countries! Are you ready?  Some of them are obvious, but as of last count, there are people reading my blog in:

United States

Austria

Israel

Germany

Great Britain

Argentina

Australia

South Korea

India

Russia

Canada

Spain

Poland

Kyrgyzstan

Denmark

Afghanistan

Egypt

Finland

France

Iran

Serbia

Singapore

Moldova

So my question is:  Since I don’t anyone in most of these countries, Who are you? How did you find me?  And if you’re reading this now, why not jot a comment down below and tell me something about yourself (as little or as much as you’d like)? 

I’m so curious – aren’t you?

Working Girl

Going to and from 'the office'

There is no question that when I had my own business and worked from the house, I had the best commute possible. A single flight of stairs separated my personal life from my office in the basement. This had its drawbacks, of course, as I could never really be completely in one place without feeling the very nearby pull of the other. But it was a small price, well worth paying, to not have to deal with NYC subways!

Here in Vienna, however, where I have to travel to each class I teach, often several times a day, commuting is a downright pleasure. First, as I’ve written earlier, with my annual pass I can make as many trips as I want without paying a fare each time. This in itself is a bonus. 

Second, since Vienna is not all that huge, getting anywhere within the city usually takes no more than half an hour. And the going is easy, comfortable, quick, and reliable.

Before working here, creature of habit that I am, I would have thought that I’d prefer the predictability of commuting to the same office every day, not having to think about which connections to make (i.e. getting lost!), or calculating different travel times. But I’ve found that one of the advantages of the language schools sending me out to different company offices for each class is that it’s been the best way to get to know the city. I’ve gone to districts and areas and business environments I would have never otherwise seen. And sometimes the getting there is also just as interesting.

So here are a few snapshots of my various commutes so far.

One group I teach is at a company in the Millenium Tower in the 20th district. It is the tallest office building in the city, and offers this spectacular view, looking south, from the conference room where I teach. The Danube is off to the left.

I get to ride this classy-looking elevator every time I teach at the office of one of the language schools, which is located in the very heart of the first district, just off the Graben and steps away from Stephansdom.

And here is what Stephansdom looked like at sunset the other evening as I left the office - a balmy evening, and the cafes and the pedestrian plaza were full. Perfect time to reward myself with a gelato combo - hazelnut and chocolate!

I've been teaching several classes at the Austrian motor club (their AAA), which is about 15 minutes north of the city limits in a town called Klosterneuberg, famous for its ancient monastery. Even before spring, the scenery was picturesque, so I enjoy going there even though it's a 45-minute commute each way and a 10-minute hike from the bus stop, up a fairly steep road.

I've just started some new classes at one of the country's major banks in the third district, and I pass the Wiener Konzert Haus every time I go there. The concert season is really kicking into high gear now, so I hope to treat myself soon, because, after all, they get the top orchestras and soloists. But I think I need to save a few more Euros before I do!

Have I mentioned lately how much the Viennese like to eat? This modest array is one of several in a series of shops in the shopping mall/lobby of one company where I teach. It greets (and tempts) me every time, even early in the morning.

This is a (surreptitiously taken) photo of the reception desk/counter at a huge client company, located in a corporate park in the 12th district. Employees scoop up the free fruit by the handful on their way to work. Smart company!

I wonder where my next assignment will take me ... 

Best Birthday Ever

Who knew my kids could lie so well?

With the stealth-of-mission worthy of a Mossad sting operation, it turns out that my children – long before I even left for Vienna – had been plotting, scheming, and exercising the most extreme secrecy in order to stage a birthday surprise that would top all birthday surprises. And if there is such a thing as happy PTSD, then I have it, because I am still reliving that moment of surprise over and over in my mind. And it sends my heart racing every time.

The last time I had seen Ben was at the end of September 2010, when he left for London to study at the Royal College of Art. I’d said my tearful goodbyes to Michelle after Thanksgiving, and then again on New Year’s Eve, when I’d had to return briefly to NJ.

Since then, thanks to e-mail, Facebook and, above all, Skype, I’ve been able to stay in touch, but of course it’s not the same as being together. A few weeks ago, Ben suggested that he might like to come for a visit around the time of my birthday. Of course I was ecstatic, and immediately began thinking of all the places we could go and things we could do for the week (Monday to Friday) that he said he’d be here.

So after teaching my morning class on Monday, the 2^nd, I hopped on the CAT train to the airport, and with great joy and jubilation, hugged my beamish boy on his arrival. We stopped for a jause (afternoon snack) in the outdoor garden of my neighborhood café before going to my apartment, and Ben’s reunion with Scout. Let me tell you - that was one happy dog! (Ben was pretty happy too.)

On Tuesday, my birthday, we walked and walked all around my district, stopping for lunch at one of the university campus bistros. A quick return to the apartment to feed and walk Scout, then out again to stroll and shop through the streets of the 7^th and 6^th districts. When the shops started closing and my feet started giving out, we headed back to my place.

As we walked down the street towards my apartment, Ben asked me what I wanted for Mother’s Day. I was clueless, and even surprised by the question. I think I said something like, “Nothing special.” Ben just grinned and said, “I think we can do better than that.” I shrugged and said, “OK, whatever you’d like to do is fine with me.” I looked up, and there in front of me stood Michelle and Arnon. I was speechless, flabbergasted, and overjoyed.

Oh, so happy me, out for my birthday dinner with my kids at Selbstverständlich (Obviously), my favorite local restaurant.

Ben made an omelet breakfast for us all
before our day's excursion.

It was the last thing in the world I was expecting, but the best thing in the world I could have ever dreamed of. Mish had told me that they were leaving on Thursday for Israel to see family. But, papushdeenisneakies that they are, they left on Monday instead and had arranged their itinerary to include a stop in Vienna. The down side was that, in reality, Ben could not take the time to stay the whole week. Of course, he’d known that all along, but told me he was going to stay through Friday just to ensure that I didn’t make any other plans. They had to be sure I’d be here – and not busy – for Michelle’s visit. Their master plan unfolded brilliantly.

A Ferris Bueller moment in front of
a Schiele landscape

Soooooooo, the next day, Ben, Michelle, Arnon and I went together to the Leopold Museum (great exhibit of Jugendstil/Art Nouveau jewelry and some amazing Schiele), and had fantastic Austrian cuisine for lunch. 

Aw ...

And aw ...

On the train to the plane

Coffee and strudel at the classic
Grienstedl Cafe  

Ben gets his Wienerschnitzel

Then we accompanied Ben to the CAT for his return flight to London. Michelle, Arnon and I ambled in and around the 1^st district. Of course this included a  stop for coffee and apfelstrudel, then it was back to my place for a rest and a home-cooked meal. 

A quick stop to see one of the offices where I teach.

Thursday was Arnon’s turn to leave, as he was eager to see his family and home, where he hadn’t been in a year and a half. Mish and I had a glorious day together, strolling and eating at the Naschmarkt, window-shopping on Mariahilferstrasse (and, yes, a coffee at the old coffee house there). Dinner was a quiet meal of Austrian fare at the café around the corner. 

Yes, it's edible wurst, but it's marzipan!

Our parting the next morning was, of course, quite sad, but the utter joy and love I felt over the previous few days was enough to get me through the moment of separation. And I will be living off that for a lifetime.  Thank you, my dearest, most wonderful children, from the very bottom of my heart. You are the best, and you made this absolutely the best birthday ever.

Pete's Visit

Some photo highlights

Isn’t it always that way … you live in a great city but never tour the sites until company comes? Only this time, when my brother, Peter, came to visit, we decided to go and see a little bit of the countryside beyond Vienna. And the beautiful thing is, you don’t have to go far – barely an hour’s drive outside the city limits – to see some of the most spectacular scenery and bits of history. So here, with just a little caption narration, is a brief look at some highlights of our wonderful week.

We actually began in the city itself by going back to our roots.
Peter is standing in front of the building where our father grew up,
and I am standing in front of the doorway to our mother's childhood home.

On Saturday, we took a train to the village of Melk, site of an 11th century Benedictine abbey, which sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube in Lower Austria, adjoining the Wachau valley. The church was breathtaking! 

The view of the village, next to the river, was enchanting.

Then we took a boat ride up river on the Danube, enjoying lunch, as well as the view, with friends. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

We disembarked at Krems, a town that is over 1,000 years old and is in the center of a major grape-growing region.

We enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the old city. I particularly fancied the statue in the middle which, legend has it, was erected by and dedicated to the association of hen-pecked husbands!

On Sunday, we picked up a rental car, packed Scout in it, and headed south to the village of Puchberg am Schneeberg, where my parents vacationed on their trips back to Austria in their later years. Again, I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

After Scout spooked the cows, they all got up and headed towards us with great purpose. This in turn spooked Scout, who growled threateningly, which provoked the cows even further and caused them to approach with even greater purpose! We decided to high-tail it out of there, and retreated in haste to this lovely cafe for some coffee, quiet, sunshine and strudel.

Monday was a day in town, shopping at the local market, browsing the Ostermarkt (you've never seen so many beautiful eggs!) and getting ready for the Pesach seder.

On Tuesday, the Danube called us back, and we drove to Durnstein.

A magical evening along the river: warm air, trees in bloom, birds in song, and Austrian soul food for dinner.

Pete had the salmon (Lachs) and prawns, I had the goulash with quail's egg and spaetzle.

And then the sun set, casting a glow on the castle ruins above the town, where King Richard I Lionheart of England was held captive during the third Crusade.

Best Strudel
We have sampled apfelstrudel in many places throughout and outside the city, and so far, this one, served at the Gasthaus Wild on Radetskyplatz  in Vienna's third district, is the winner. But of course, the search must go on!

In Transit

Getting Around in Vienna    

I’m sure it’s quite possible that there are better public transit systems in the world, but the ease of getting around Vienna without a car is a big part of what makes this truly one of the most livable cities.

 

Of course, size does matter. Vienna is only 160 square miles – half the land mass of New York. And the Ubahn is newer than the subway. Nevertheless, I am convinced that the Austrian system is far superior, and would never work back in the good ol’ U.S. of A.

For one thing, it works on the honor system. What’s that, you say? They actually trust their citizens to pay? Well, actually, yes. That isn’t to say that some don’t try to cheat it. But here’s how it works. You can ride any Ubahn, city tram or bus just by getting on. You don’t have to swipe a card or pay a cashier. Really, you just walk on. Of course, you’re supposed to pay – by the ride, day, week, month or year – and if one of the undercover ticket agents shakes you down and you don’t have a ticket, you pay a steep fine:  €75 (about $100). So far I’ve seen it happen only once, and the agent  took pity on the tearful young student and let her pay the fare instead of issuing a summons for the fine.

So I decided to buy a year pass (Jahreskarte), which comes with a significant discount, and now I never have to think about it. I can ride as many trains, trams or buses as I like without having to pay for each trip. And, here’s a bonus for Austrian seniors:  you qualify at 60 for steeply reduced rates, so it costs next to nothing to use public transit! Just a little over a year for me to go – wohoo!

Another benefit, and it’s probably no surprise – Vienna transit runs on schedule, and on time!  Every Ubahn station and tram or bus stop has a printed daily schedule you can check, and most have a digital readout that updates every minute to tell you exactly when the next one is coming – and the one after that too, which is typically only a couple of minutes. Miss a train? No problem! Next one should be along any minute. Running to catch a train was never my idea of good exercise anyway; now I don’t have to.

Dang! Just missed a train.
No problem, another one will be here in
a couple of minutes.

Here it comes now!

    

But if you really can't bear to stand idle for two minutes, or are anxious about getting where you're going, Vienna will even entertain you while you wait! Several Ubahn stations have plasma screens along the tunnel walls, which display videos of news, cultural listings, ads, and even cartoons. And, with safety in mind, when the train is about to enter the station, the screen shifts to a warning to step back, then goes blank. Take a look!

And you know those garbled PA announcements on the NYC subways? Vienna’s got them beat there too. Not only are the announcements clear (even I can understand the German), it’s the same recorded voice throughout the system, and he tells you not just the next stop, but all the other Ubahn, tram and subway lines you can connect with there. Oh, and in case you want to prepare, he also tells you which side of the car the doors will open.

I also think that the Vienna transit system – WienerLinien – hires graphic designers with a fetish for maps and signs. Clear as a bell, colorful and easy to interpret. 

Here's where you are, where you're going, and when you'll get there.

And that’s not all. Don’t know the best way to go from point A to Point B? Just go online. Provide your address or nearest stop, your destination, the date and time of your trip, and voilà – within seconds several possible routes appear, with multiple combinations of Ubahn, tram and bus rides, and it tells you exactly how long each one takes. Click on the PDF symbol, and you’ll even get a map showing the path to walk from the station to the particular location. The date and time is very important because their computer knows the precise schedule for every day and hour, so if you plug in, for example, the time you have to be somewhere, you’ll know exactly when you have to leave. And barring some natural disaster, you can reliably predict that you will be on time. Neat, huh?

Don’t get me wrong – Vienna has plenty of cars and trucks on the road. But I get the feeling they really want to encourage using public transit because they make it so accessible. You can ride with your baby stroller, shopping cart, bicycle – no problem. Not only does every Ubahn station (I think) have an elevator, but there are special parts of each car reserved for these people, and in my experience, riders always make way for them. Trams and buses have flat, wide entrance platforms in addition to the usual steps.

Got the munchies? The question is:
What don't I want?

And never fear, you simply cannot go hungry in Vienna, no matter how long your commute. In or near every Ubahn, tram or bus station is an assortment of bakeries, sandwich shops or pizza/sausage/kebab stands. And they are well patronized!

Last, for now, and certainly not least, dogs are permitted! They are required to be muzzled, but I have to say that this regulation is not always observed. Nonetheless, and probably because the Viennese are so besotted with their canine companions, I think I’ve seen every breed and size of pooch riding the rails. I have yet to introduce Scout to this novelty, but I suspect that before too long I will – it’s simply a necessary part of her Viennese education and assimilation process. (Check out this clip and you'll see.)

There is one similarity with the NY subway, though – you hear an unending variety of languages spoken. Vienna has always been a crossroads city, and many immigrants, or visitors, live and travel here. And while I may have an ear for languages, I think I’ve heard many more that I don’t recognize than ones that I do. It’s a mysterious and delightful cacophony!

All kids love to push buttons. So smart Viennese moms
let theirs push the ones on the Ubahn doors,
which you need to do if you want to exit.