A Jew's Christmas in Vienna

(…with apologies to Dylan Thomas)

I suppose it could be said that I see things in Vienna through rose-colored glasses, both because I am so happy to be here and because I feel at home in a culture that is very familiar to me. And even though the streets and stores have been crowded with busy gift shoppers, I don’t sense the same materialistic madness as in the U.S., like the post-Thanksgiving Black Friday midnight crush, or the pepper spray aggression at Walmart! There is also virtually no trace of tacky flashing light displays, inflated lawn Santas or other gaudy decorations.

But don’t get me wrong … the city is certainly ‘dressed up’ for the holiday. Stunning but tasteful lights adorn the major pedestrian thoroughfares; little pine forests have sprung up everywhere with beautiful, fragrant specimens for sale; and dozens of markets – called Kristkindlmarkts – abound, in major tourist locations as well as some local neighborhoods. The tradition, it seems, dates back to the Middle Ages, and many items have become quite clichéd, but walking among the chalet-like wooden huts with our noses frozen by the cold, hands warmed by mugs of glühwein (mulled wine) or Punsch (punch), and tummies sated with Maronen (chestnuts—yes, roasted on open fires), Würstel (sausages), Krapfen (jam-filled donuts), and Lebkuchen (gingerbread), it’s almost impossible to resist the seasonal spirit, even for a nice Jewish girl from New York!

So here’s a glimpse of some of my Christmas wanderings. There were many other markets that I visited, and even more that I didn’t get to visit … but there’s always next year!

Kristkindlmarkt in front of the Rathaus (city hall)

Christmas lights on the Graben

And then one day a pine forest "grew" on the Graben ...

... and in so many other places, including in front of this church.

"Old Vienna Xmas Market" 

Mixing business (gift shopping) with pleasure (eating and drinking) !

Yummy - Der Lebkuchen schmeckt mir sehr gut!

Even sent some home to my 'cookie punk' offspring!

Handcrafted tree ornaments of infinite variety 

Who knew the Austrians were such apiarists?
Honies and beeswax candles make extremely popular gifts. 

Christmas must-haves, right?

More tree and house decorations 

Basketry is also popular, year-round 

Austrian president, Heinz Fischer, visits

(not my photo)

(Click on the link, and scroll down to just below where you'll see this photo. Hover your mouse over the little black box and click on the arrow to watch a little clip:) 

http://www.altwiener-markt.at/start.html  

And don’t believe everything you hear about the reserved and unfriendly Viennese. The (native) neighbors on my floor are some of the nicest people you’d ever want to meet. One, an older gentleman who absolutely adores Scout, came to my door on Christmas Day with biscuits for her and a box full of home-made­ Vanillekipferl for me. 

Almost as good as Oma's

But don't worry, I haven't forgotten my heritage; I lit Hanukkah candles at my window faithfully every night: 

The glow from the candles on my parents' menorah
shone out onto the streets of Vienna for eight nights.